Sept. 22
Baroness Caroline Cox asked me to join her on her 80th trip to Armenia and Artsakh [Karabagh] back in December 2012 at the Armenian National Committee of America Eastern Region (ANCA-ER) Banquet in New Jersey. I was flattered and immediately said yes, not knowing whether or not I could see the plans come to fruition.
The group toasting with our hosts in Byurakan
Thanks to my superiors and colleagues, the trip has indeed come together. And I’ve been here since Sept. 20 with the Baroness and her crew, some from her non-profit–Humanitarian Aid Relief Trust (HART)–and other friends she’s met in her travels. I’m so fortunate to be here.
Today, we had a late start and left the hotel at noon. But before that, I woke up early to check out the Vernissage. It was a treat to see all the Armenian merchants spending their day together—most seemed to be family, or friends at the very least, and played cards and smoked cigarettes to pass the time together.
I perused for a while and used the little Armenian I do speak to converse with the locals. Much to my surprise I pulled it off quite well, but they also understood basic English. It’s a learning process to be sure. I also was able to read Armenian to add more money to my SIM card so I can access Internet from my phone. It’s the little things that boost one’s confidence, isn’t it?
I met the group at noon and we took our bus into the mountains outside Yerevan. We were journeying up to Amberd, a historic 7th-century fortress located 7,500 feet above sea level—and it showed with my ears popping the entire ride up Mount Aragats. The fortress is at the confluence of the Arkashen and Amberd rivers in the region of Aragatsotn. Along the way, Baroness Cox provided us with snippets of Armenian history and her journeys through our land.
As we approached the fortress and the Vahramashen Church located nearby, I saw cows, pigs, and horses all around us as other visitors snapped photos with the scenic background behind them. It was typical mountainous terrain—rocky, brown grass, steep–yet it was so breathtaking and silent that I truly felt at peace. Living just outside of Boston doesn’t provide many moments of solitude, so I’m taking advantage of those moments on this trip, especially thousands of feet above urban life.
We all climbed over jagged rock and down the stone steps to the fortress and the church, which has withstood so many years and so much history. Candles were lit inside and some of the locals were saying prayers. Several of them recognized Lady Cox and thanked her endlessly for her generosity to our people. Everywhere we’ve been thus far, Armenians have realized who Lady Cox is, and immediately introduce themselves and thank her. It’s very moving.
After Amberd, we drove back down the mountain to Byurakan, a village in the same region on the slope of Mount Aragats. It is the site of the Byurakan Observatory, which we were going to visit in the evening, but the weather proved to be problematic to see any stars. We went to a friend of Lady Cox’s in Byurkan whom she met 21 years ago during the dark days of the Artsakh War. He and his friends prepared a fantastic khorovadz for our group as a thank you to Lady Cox on her 80th trip to Haiastan.
The hosts were gracious to Baroness Cox and she was in return, as always. She presented a bottle of liquor to one host and a plaque to another—Stepan, who has been a pilot for her for years, particularly during the Artsakh War. It was a wonderful evening filled with good spirit, hospitality, and delicious food.
Lady Cox has thanked all of us in her group for joining her at least a dozen times each, which just goes to show how appreciative she is of others even though we should be celebrating her and her good work. Always humble and grateful for every experience, she is a testament to the good in humanity. It’s a pleasure to accompany her on this trip and to know her.
Tomorrow we head to Artsakh. Can’t wait to see the beautiful countryside I’ve heard about for so many years and to witness the historic land that has endured so much.
***
Sept. 21
I’m lucky enough to be accompanying Baroness Caroline Cox—a humanitarian and huge champion for Armenians who is visiting Armenia and Artsakh for the 80th time—on what is actually my 1st trip to Armenia.
The reception was a huge soiree with music, food, drinks, and good company. President Serge Sarkisian was there and addressed the crowd, and then music and slideshows followed while everyone mingled.
I’m only here one week and the first two days have already proven to be worth the long trip to get here. We’re staying at the Ani Plaza Hotel in Yerevan, a great location, and we spent Independence Day the right way.
After breakfast, we journeyed to Khor Virap, one of our most ancient and beloved sites. I’ve had Khor Virap as my desktop background on my computer for years, yet nothing compared to the beauty and awe as we drove up the path to the monastery. It literally took my breath away (so far, this entire visit has essentially taken my breath away).
The site was crowded because of the holiday, but we were able to sneak in line to experience the dungeon that St. Gregory the Illuminator suffered and survived in for 15 years so many centuries ago. Our group—six of us today—all went down. The Baroness led us all over Khor Virap, from the dungeon ladder steps to the steps of the church. It was truly an unforgettable experience.
To see Mount Ararat so clearly and so close was indescribable. We looked through binoculars and could see the Armenian-Turkish border and the patrol tower that the Turks occupy. I understand our geography and the history, but to see it in person is not the same. To see how close Armenians are to Turks rattled me a bit, even though this was not new information.
The author and Baroness Cox at Khor Virap.
After Khor Virap, we journeyed to Geghard to pay our respects to another historic Armenian church. A few of us were (and are) still so jetlagged that we nodded off on the bus. The Baroness invited both colleagues and friends she has met through her work over the years on this trip, and it’s remarkable to see the range of people she has reached through her generosity. There are folks here from the U.S., Britain (where the Baroness lives), Burma, Germany, and more.
When we arrived at Geghard, I was taken aback by how secluded it was. What a great hidden treasure in the terrain of Armenia! I tend to get motion sickness, and to be honest once I saw what we’d have to drive through, I wasn’t totally looking forward to it, but I was completely wrong. Every journey is worth it when you’re visiting your roots for the first of many times.
Geghard was gorgeous. The church was busy (again, the holiday), and we saw at least three wedding caravans come up to the church. What a perfect day—both symbolically and weather-wise—to tie the knot. Cars were honking and people were yelling their congratulations as the soon-to-be wedded couples walked up the stone steps.
Our group went to the second floor of Geghard and found a lovely five-woman choir singing traditional Armenian hymns. They were spectacular. Growing up in the church, I’ve heard and grown accustomed to our music, liturgy, etc. But it’s a different experience to hear the harmony these five women created in a space that was so acoustically perfect. I took as much video as I possibly could, but that experience is one that cannot be replicated.
As we left the church and walked among the merchants selling fruit and bread in their stands on the side of the road, I already felt fulfilled. As soon as I saw Mount Ararat in person, I felt fulfilled. We drove back to Yerevan to get ready for an Independence Day reception at the Karen Demirdjian Complex, which was widely attended.
The reception was a huge soiree with music, food, drinks, and good company. President Sarkisian was there and addressed the crowd, and then music and video slideshows followed while everyone mingled. I saw a few colleagues—ANCA Chairman Ken Hachikian and ANCA Western Region Board Member Nora Hovsepian—among the crowd. We all went through the line to toast the dignitaries (President Sarkisian, his wife, the president of Artsakh, etc.).
We concluded the day with dinner and drinks, and it didn’t hit me until then how much we had done in one day, let alone on Independence Day. Hands down, the best Armenian Independence Day I’ve experienced (what could be better than being in Yerevan?).
It’s been an adventure so far. I look forward to sharing more with you as I join Lady Cox and my new friends this week!